I had actually ordered the pappardelle with braised pork by mistake, intending to get the tagliatelle ragu. Many of the dishes are a revelation, a joy to behold. It’s stuffed with braised beef cheeks, and flavored with 12-year-old balsamic, brown butter and sage. As is the scarpinocc, which looks a bit like candy bonbons, rolled in plastic, with a twist on either end. The bavette - a ribbon pasta that’s like tagliatelle, only narrower - appears on the lunch menu with a rock shrimp ragu, and on the dinner menu with the same rock shrimp ragu, but also with a stretchy straciatella cheese, which costs $4 extra at lunchtime.īut the ricotta gnocchi, with its house-cured pastrami “lardons,” is at both meals. But mostly, the pastas overlap, though they may be a bit simpler at lunch than at dinner. As well lasagna should be - a proper lasagna will leave you in no shape at all to return to work for the afternoon. Should you develop an obsession with the lasagna with a “Hollywood” ragu (which seems to mean extra meaty), it’s served at dinner only. There are seven pastas for lunch, eight for dinner, with plenty of overlap. But the pasta here is so sublime, it’s worth the possible competition for a seat. In a mini-mall adjacent to Sausal, you’ll find the totally minimalist Jame Enoteca (241 Main St., El Segundo 31, where there are, by comparison, just a handful of tables. And the mixed drinks would almost surely leave them wondering if they had spent too much time without sombreros in the hot summer sun. But otherwise, the menu would be a mystery to them. Those early Californians might have recognized dishes like the long-cooked beef brisket barbacoa, the red mole braised lamb, the chicken pozole, the beef and goat birria. The name Sausal comes from the Rancho Sausal Redondo, a farm that once occupied most of the South Bay. Most notable of which may be Sausal (219 Main St., El Segundo 31, which takes up a fair amount of Main Street real estate, stretching a distance down the block for those thirsty for the restaurant’s many colorful cocktails, and Nuevo Rancho Cuisine, defined as “wood fire, smoke and slow-roasting…celebrates the bold flavors of Mexican cuisine in combination with the elemental flavors of Spain…and just as importantly, it revels in contemporary bounty…” In other words, Old Californian/Modern Californian. There’s also El Segundo, where the restaurant streets are many - beginning with Main Street, which offers convenient parking (thank you for that!) and a wide assortment of outdoor options. There are outdoor dining streets opening all over Southern California - Colorado Boulevard in Old Pasadena, The Commons at Calabasas in the San Fernando Valley and, most notably, here in the South Bay, on Catalina Avenue in Redondo Beach and Sartori Avenue in Old Torrance.
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